Show: Louis Vuitton
Hair: Guido Paulo
Makeup: Pat McGrath
Accessories: Patent high-heeled mules, Lockit and classic Speedy bags in hyper-luxurious fabrics like whitewashed crocodile and deer, silver tiaras on every head
Overall takeaway: A sugar-spun, sugary-sweet Sugar Plum Fairytale of a spring collection
Sugar and spice and all things nice. That's what little girls are made of. It's also what Marc Jacobs's Louis Vuitton collection is made of for Spring '12—if that list encompasses such wonders as gem-studded paper dresses, powdered crocodile and millions of dollars worth of feathers.
Unveiled on a vast carousel—representing "the circular dance of fashion"—in the Cour du Louvre, the Louis Vuitton collection felt like the definitive statement of femininity, a sugar-rush that made your back-teeth hurt. But in a very wonderful way. It neatly tied up many of the season's key themes—pastel palette, sumptuous decoration, '60s couture silhouettes. Wait, did I just say couture? Was this Marc Jacobs's big creative bid for the top dog role at Christian Dior?
Many assume that has already been handed to him on a silver platter—but, for the world's press, this was Jacobs's audition. His show notes constantly returned to the value of the handcraft of the Parisian ateliers, and he lavished their no-expense-spared expertise across these truly beautiful garments. It also had its own distinct handwriting, Jacobs's handwriting, that would be evident no matter what name was on the label inside. We wait with bated breath for the announcement of the new Dior designer. If it were judged purely on this superb offering, Monsieur Marc would be a shoe-in.
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