The fashion world waited with bated breath for Giambattista Valli's debut couture collection—no pressure—and the Paris-based Italian designer did not disappoint. With Valli's knack for precision and detail, a couture collection is by no means a stretch of his talents. Valli took his RTW love of texture, crisp silhouettes and propensity for drama to Paris Couture Week.
Many pieces are reminiscent of Valli's previous collections, particularly his love of '60s silhouettes and his black-and-white Flemish floral prints from Fall 2011. The designer pushes his strength in embellishment to the next level with floral rosettes, heavy beading and cascading wispy feathers. The pieces, however, are never over-the-top (minus, perhaps, one forgivable veiled look). Valli's mastery lies in the fact that, no matter the volume, his designs never swallow the model, his mixture of day to night pieces never look silly or excessive—Valli's lady is both beautiful and empowered. Her weapons of choice? Fiery reds, ferocious leopard print and structured metallic belts to counter the bubble hems and feminine frivolities.
After Doutzen Kroes took breaths away in Valli's Fall '11 red swiss dot masterpiece at the Met Gala, it will be no surprise when a ball gown or three become staples in his collections. Valli finishes off his show with three tulle confections, sure contenders for next year's Met Gala red carpet. As for Valli's vast celebrity and socialite clientele? They will be giddy with his couture debut, as he offered the understated extravagance they so crave.
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